Hi everyone! Emily here, bringing you a quick "warm shoulder" hack for the new Not So Cold Shoulder Top from Amelia Lane Designs.
If you want to try making the warm shoulder version of the new NSCS top, you'll need your front and back bodice pieces, and the RIGHT sleeve, plus any other options (sleeve cuffs, banded bottom hack, etc).
Fold the front and back bodice pieces in half along the vertical grain lines. These are placed to help mark the center of the pattern!
In my photos above, you can see that one side of the pattern slants up higher than the other on both of those pieces - make sure those are the sides you use when you go to cut your fabric.
Line up the folded edge of your pattern piece on the fold of your fabric. Cut one front on the fold using the covered shoulder line, and one back on the fold using the covered shoulder line. I like to add a notch on the center neckline of my back piece to mark my center back - I find myself getting my front and back mixed up when I sew a raglan otherwise!
Cut two right sleeves as mirror images. Be sure to mark your notches - the double notches on the smaller curve indicate the front, and the taller curve will line up with the back bodice.
Next, follow the assembly instructions for "no shelf bra." This will take you through attaching the sleeves to the front bodice and to the back bodice.
You will need to quarter your neckline shortly, so I went ahead and folded my bodice in half to find the center back (which I previously notched) and the center front of the neckline, and added a clip at the front. At this point, I also measured my neckline so I could calculate my new neckband.
This is half the neckline length, so you will want to calculate your neckband as follows:
(measurement) x 2 x 0.85 + 0.5 = length
(measurement) x 2 will give you your full neckline measurement; this value x 0.85 gives you 85% of the neckline, and then at the very end you need to add on half an inch for the seam allowance. Cut your neckband at your calculated length x 1.75" - I found my warm shoulder neckband stood up a bit when I tried the full 3.5" width from the pattern, the curves are just different from the cold shoulder pattern!
Go ahead and finish out the directions from here, including attaching the neckband, sewing the side seams, and hemming or cuffing.
Ta da! You have a Not So Cold Shoulder, warm shoulder raglan.
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